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Preparing for the Expedition: Only a Couple Weeks Left
February 4th, 2010

With only 18 days left until our departure date, planning efforts and gear modifications are in full swing! One of our principle challenges is to anticipate the conditions which we will encounter during our 35-day circumnavigation of Lake Baikal and make all preparations ahead of time to ensure a successful adventure. An obvious concern is staying warm. As cyclists, we are all familiar with the difficulty of keeping hands and feet warm during cold weather riding. We examined the systems in use by mid-west winter cyclists and Alaskan Iditabike participants, discussed the pros and cons of various shoe and pedal systems, and eventually decided that for our needs a warm winter boot matched to a flat pedal with power straps is the safest choice. Although it would be nice to use an SPD-type pedal, the risks of mechanical failure as well as the difficulty of mounting a cleat to a winter boot made us decide to keep things simple. We will be doing a lot of walking, and any hole through the sole of the shoe allows cold and moisture to penetrate the inside of the boot. The boot of choice? – the Kamik Cody rated to -78 degrees Celsius. It is a bulky boot, but cold feet could ruin the trip, and it will be nice not to have to flee to the sleeping bags as soon as the sun goes down at night. Choosing a system for hands was not as difficult. We will bring insulated shell mittens for riding and a pair of good windproof fleece gloves for tasks that demand a lot of dexterity.

The pedal system was a little trickier. Due to the large size of the boot we wanted to use a platform pedal, but the power straps are designed to work with standard-size pedals. With a lot of grinding with a bench grinder and Dremel tool we managed to clear away enough of the pedal body to attach the extra-long power strap mounting hardware. This system should give us plenty of contact with the pedal and provide decent efficiency while still being simple and reliable. In the photo you can see the silver areas where we had to grind away the pedal body to custom fit the power straps. The grind marks in the center are from having to angle the Dremel tool inside the pedal body to clear an area for the bolts to pass through the pedal cage.

While we expect some days of sunshine and moderate temperatures around -15 degrees Celsius, we must also be prepared for winter storms and periods of cold down to -40 degrees Celsius. Our clothing systems vary a lot depending on the individual. I have decided on the following layered system which will hopefully keep me warm in the worst conditions on Baikal:

Smart Wool 100% Merino Wool base layer tops and bottoms
Smart Wool 100% Merino Wool extra-thick socks
Sherpa Adventure Gear Polartec fleece jacket
Sherpa Adventure Gear Primaloft pants and jacket
Hard shell windproof pant
Insulated Shell mittens
Windstopper Pro Balaclava (face mask)
Ski goggles

But we don’t just have to keep ourselves from freezing… The grease in all the moving parts on a bicycle can freeze up in temperatures below -15 degrees Celsius and create all kinds of problems. The freehub (cassette) body is an especially important component to keep from freezing. If the palls in the freehub body freeze they fail to engage the inner splines in the hub and pedaling forward yields the same of momentum as pedaling backwards, i.e. nothing happens whatsoever. This would be a bad thing. To prevent this and other possible problems, we have changed the grease in every bearing assembly on the bike: bottom brackets, hubs, pedals, headsets, and freehub bodies. Instead of a standard bicycle or automotive grease, we are using specially formulated grease that comes highly recommended by many Alaskan winter cyclists – Lubriplate Mag-1 Extreme Temperature grease rated to -50 degrees Celsius. This should keep our bearing assemblies running smooth and friction free even in the coldest temperatures.

Another problem that we had to deal with in preparing for our trip was mounting our Axiom Odyssey rear rack to our bikes. We will be running a two-speed “single-speed” type set up with 2 chainrings in the front, and two cogs in the back. The chainrings and cogs will have a two-tooth difference, so we will be able to change gears by moving the position of the chain without changing chain tension. Our frames use horizontal sliders with single-speed drop-outs, but there are no braze-ons for a rear rack. We had a special triangular piece of stainless steel fabricated by our friend and fellow cyclist Jason Elliot at Elliot’s Specialty Sheet Metal here in Eugene, OR. They work perfectly. They bolt directly on to the slider using the main slider bolts, and keep the rack independent of the rear wheel and any tension adjustment in the chain.

Mounting the upper stays of the rack was simple thanks to the Axiom Trekk Seat Collar. These are especially useful in 29-inch mountain bike applications, as even with a full-size frame the rack is higher than the intersection of seat stays and seat tube where rack mounts are usually located. Adjust-ability of the Odyssey rack is also very simple thanks to the sliding stays, which accommodate an exceptionally large range of positions.

With a bit more than 2 weeks to go the anticipation is climbing dramatically. There is still so much to do, but the fact that this long-planned trip is finally coming to fruition is becoming more and more evident each day. It is still hard for me to believe that in less than 20 days we will head out from the Siberian city of Irkutsk along the frozen Angara River to begin our month-long circumnavigation of the deepest and oldest lake in the world, Lake Baikal.

Island Hopping: Touring Maui Part II
Thursday, January 14th, 2010

Arriving to upcountry Maui was a relief from the dry landscape of the southwest part of the island. We were greeted by the gentle movement of tall and fragrant eucalyptus. But, as you can expect, we were also greeted by the unmerciful uphill that we needed to overcome to reach our next goal: Wailea-Makena. Deven was pleased to enjoy the benefits of her newly acquired 27 seven speed folding bike. We pedaled for hours before we reached the top of Ulupalakua where we welcomed the downhill road towards the low-land cane fields.

(Below: The diversity of Maui upcountry landscape: dirt roads and eucalyptus forest).

The end of the downhill road showed us that not all is beauty in Maui: foul smelly air combined with views of pollution expelling sugar cane refineries. Continuing through a bike path along HWY 311 also provided a sample of clouds of mosquitoes and glimpses of what was to come in Wailea: crowded beaches and multi-million resort operations!! Unfortunately it was late and we were left with no choice but to spend the night in the circus.

(Below: Not all of Maui is draped in picturesque beauty, these pictures are of the sugar cane fields and refineries).

Next morning a plan of attack was in place. Escape to the less touristic and more remote island of Molokai!

After having circumnavigated about ¾ of the island of Maui, we made it to the quaint colonial fishing town of Lanai were we arranged a late afternoon departure on the ferry to Molokai. We were again thankful for our folding bikes and our minimal gear (in the form of our well packed rear panniers…got to love our Axiom panniers!) as we were able to avoid any additional charge, although this did take a little bit of coaxing. Tired after a long day of riding in hot weather we welcomed the relaxing 2 hour ride to Molokai.

Although we arrived on Molokai as darkness set in, we could immediately tell we were in a different place than the hustle and bustle of the tourist towns of Maui that we left behind. We rode around for several miles before we finally found a place to stay for the night. We were struck at the lack of traffic, quietness and darkness. We probably should have put the bike lights on as there are few street lights on the island (and no traffic lights!) but choose instead to just enjoy the peaceful night. The next morning we rode around the main town of Kaunakakai, which took all of several minutes, and had breakfast at a local diner. Our afternoon consisted of riding east along the Southern coast on Highway 450, which despite its name was no more than a low-traffic two lane road with a generous shoulder and beautiful coastal views. Since we were staying in the same place at night, we were able to ditch our panniers for the day and instead replaced them with snorkel gear which could easily be strapped to our rear bike racks with the help of a creatively placed bungee cord. Spiny tropical plants caused two flats along the way but otherwise it was a relaxing day of riding and snorkeling.

(Below: Many of Molokai’s dramatic landscapes: North cliffs overlooking Kalaupapa Peninsula and Maikey pushing bikes on the southern reef cliffs).

The next day, having already explored the Eastern island we went West and North along the Kalae Hwy/State Hwy 460. Our goal was to make it to the North side of the island to Pala’au State Park and its infamous Leper colony at Kalaupapa. Although this ride does not cover many miles it is all uphill, cumulating at the Pala’au State Park which overlooks the old leper colony below. The leper colony at Kalaupapa sits on a flat small peninsula which is guarded by a sheer face of sea cliff, and it was easy to see why this site was selected as it would be nearly impossible to escape. It is unfortunate that such a beautiful place has such a tragic history of sickness and despair.

Although our ride to the North took the better part of the afternoon, our ride back down to the South side took a fraction of the time. The next morning we were back again on the ferry. Our time on Molokai was short and we could have stayed longer exploring some of the even less traveled back roads on this quiet laid-back truly Hawaiian island.

Ups and Downs:Touring Maui Part 1
Friday, November 27th, 2009

Flying to Hawii was the easy part the hard part was avoiding the oversize luggage penalty. What’s in the box?

The solution: Disassembling bikes completely and fitting them into a 62 linear inch maze of cardboard. Fortunately, small enough folding bikes and smart designed racks and panniers were key to fit this task. The Streamliner Road DLX rack was perfect thanks to its narrow profile and sturdy construction. Worry about carry on? The one-piece double-sided Appalachian panniers were ideal to keep essentials handy while keeping the TSA at bay. Gear was also at a minimum—who needs much for Hawaii?

We landed in Kahalui airport on the island of Maui. It was a windy and hot day in early October. Going through customs and putting the bikes together was faster than we expected. We were glad to be on our bikes and riding out from the airport. Our first stop was Paia, an artist colony east of the airport. The first few miles were shocking in compared to riding in Eugene, Oregon drivers seem more impatient and aggressive than we typically see around Eugene, OR. Although Hawaiians are very laid back in some respects this mentality did not hold true when it came to driving.

The road to Paia was a pleasant; fortunately the wind was at our back. Temperature was nice and the sky was adorned with a rainbow. Six miles later and some patchy rain here and there we found ourselves at our first destination. We spent the night at a surfers hostels, frequently awakened by a leaking roof. This would become the omen of what was waiting for us for our next day on the road to Hana.

By multiple accounts we heard this was a beautiful ride, winding roads with lush and beautiful scenery. The road to Hana is one of the main attractions of the island, most tourist do it as a day trip, taking several hours to complete. On our bikes it was a full day of cycling, with some challenging uphill’s and white-knuckle downhill’s. The first leg we found ourselves meandering along rolling hills that hugged coastline. Halfway along the road shifted into a narrow winding road with picturesque waterfalls dotting nearly every corner.

In addition to enjoying the ride we enjoyed the free fruits you could pick on the side of the road; guavas, coconuts, passion fruit. You didn’t even have to get off the bike to grab and eat the guavas. Most of the ride was under heavy rain which was pleasant in the hot tropical environment. Our worries centered on keeping our few pieces of clothing dry. Fortunately our Axiom Appalachian panniers held up pretty well against the rain. After a full day of riding, a few inches of rain, and beautiful scenery we arrived to the small town of Hana. Looking forward to getting out of the rain we decided to spend the night at one of the local cottages.

The text day we explored Hana Bay its surroundings before our departure. We would later find out that leaving this side of the island was a mistake. Immediately after leaving Hana, we could see a dramatic change in the landscape from lush and tropical to dry coastal landscape. The rain was no longer an issue and in fact rain would have been a welcome break from the heat. We passed several tourist traps that kept the traffic high.

After about 15 miles, the traffic all but disappeared as the road became rougher and almost disappeared in some places. Some sections could barely fit a car and were bordered by steep cliffs dropping hundreds of feet to the sea. Many spots were marked by crosses signaling the fate of the unfortunate. Before adventuring onto the hostile, barren road, surrounded by dry landscape and lava fields we stopped at the last general store to refuel. One of the “locals” that stopped by lifted our expectations by telling us that the rough rode would end in 6 miles. “No worries” He said, “you will have only about 7 miles of bad road until you get to the new paved road.” Twenty miles later as darkness was throwing its mantel over us, no signs of new road appeared. The continuous vibration became a torture only subdued by the beauty of the landscape. We rode well into the night hoping to find a camping spot beyond the lava fields. The wind picked up and we could smell the rain approaching fast. “Guess we are camping over here”, I said. As we laid out the tent the first rain drops started to hit us. Few minutes later I was taking a shower in full blown rain while Deven enjoyed the protection of our new found home for the night.

We woke up early to the sound of birds. The wind from the sea barged into the tent as I opened the door. A dense fog was covering the sea on the horizon. Out of the tent the view was spectacular. We could see the rim of Haleakala crater for the first time. Later we would find out it would be also the last. The fog vanished as the sun rose into the sky revealing a unobstructed 360 degree view. We took our time packing up and enjoyed a satisfying breakfast of fresh fruit.

We departed with the sun warming up the landscape. To our surprise we found the brand new paved road only few hundred yards from our camp. The relief of riding on a smooth surface was undeniable. Even more so considering that we were trending uphill, entering Maui’s upcountry. Lava fields and cinder cones dominated the landscape for the few first couple hours of our ride. The landscape started to change as we climbed into the mountains. Eucalyptus trees crept into the landscape signaling our entrance into the upcountry.

A Tandem Tour of South-Central Oregon – part 2.
Monday, October 5th, 2009

We were fortunate to have perfect weather and not a drop of rain for our 10-day tour of South-Central Oregon. We carried everything we needed to be self-sufficient: sleeping bags, tent, stove, fuel, and food. Our tandem was not light with the four pannier bags, and it took us a couple days to get used to the extra weight.

From Eugene we rode out Highway 58 to Oakridge, the starting point of the scenic Robert Aufderheide Memorial Drive. Aufderheide Drive was named after and dedicated to the memory of Robert Aufderheide, a Willamette National Forest Supervisor in the 1950’s who was instrumental in helping the Forest Service complete the transition from custodial management to professional intensive forest management under multiple-use principles. It would seem that despite these efforts by the Forest Service, Aufderheid’s memory has been forgotten amongt the locals, as we received strange looks whenever we referred to the road in this way. The most common reply we received in response to our inquires was, “You mean Highway 19?” The road itself is a pleasure to ride; smooth pavement and long windy climbs and descents.

Our next challenge after Aufderheide was the climb to the top of McKenzie Pass at 5,325 feet. This was the hardest climb that we had ever done together on the tandem, so we felt a rewarding sense of accomplishment as we finally emerged from the forest onto the summit plateau and were presented with an expansive view of volcanic rock and distant peaks.

The long descent from McKenzie Pass to the town of Sisters was exhilarating. Afterwards we spent the rest of the day walking around the town and enjoying fresh local peaches in peak season. From Sisters we travelled south to Bend and visited the Newberry National Volcanic Monument, where were able to walk the Lava River Cave, a one-mile long cave that at times is large enough to drive a truck through, and at other times so narrow that you have to crawl.

The next morning we decided to treat ourselves to a nice breakfast and stopped at the Red Rooster Café in the town of La Pine. It turns out that King Abdullah Hussein of Jordan himself had stopped there for a cinnamon role while on motorcycle tour of the Pacific Northwest on his brand new Harley Davidson.

From La Pine we headed west back into the mountains and enjoyed two glorious days of riding along the Cascade Lakes Highway before descending down to make camp near the translucent waters of Crescent Lake. The area southwest of Bend and just east of the cascade crest holds a large collection of alpine lakes. Crescent Lake is one of the most popular, and during summer the campgrounds and resorts are filled with vacationers. The next day we rode down to the slightly less popular Diamond Lake, which would be our camp for two days, and the launching pad for our long-awaited ride around Crater Lake.

As stunning as the many alpine lakes along the Cascade Lakes Highway were, they all paled in comparison with Crater Lake. I now understand why Crater Lake is considered one of Oregon’s premier scenic attractions. It is simply stunning. For a cyclist the lake holds additional appeal in that the road that circumnavigates the crater is ideal for cycling. After making the initial 2000 foot climb from Diamond Lake to reach the crater rim and the first view of the lake at 7025 feet (2142 meters), the road continues to climb and descend in dramatic fashion for 33 miles as it wraps around the crater rim. The whole day our cyclometer read speeds of either the low teens or the upper 50’s and very rarely in between. It was one of the most aesthetic and enjoyable rides that I have done in 20 years of cycling.

From Diamond Lake we headed west back over the cascade crest along scenic highway 138; a 40-mile descent to the town of Steamboat. This long descent was much appreciated after all the climbing around Crater Lake the previous day, and it was good that we were not too tired before facing the tough grind over Sharps Creek. Before the day was over we understood how Sharps Creek had earned its infamous reputation among cyclists in Eugene. Not once during our tour had we used the drag brake on a long descent. Down Sharps Creek I had it maxed out for nearly 15 minutes. The chip-seal surface and narrow tight corners inspired much caution.

The following day was our last and we reflected on time well spent as we travelled along familiar roads through Cottage Grove and Lorane on our way back to Eugene. We were fortunate to meet many nice people on our trip, and were surprised by the high quality of the roads and designated paths for cyclists even in relatively out-of-the-way areas. The beauty of travelling by bicycle is that you see every little bit of ground that you cover, rather than driving from destination to destination and missing everything in between. Sometimes this can mean enduring a bit of misery as you ride a congested highway section with no shoulder, or get soaked in a rain storm, but other times you find things you had not expected, like a quaint little town or an unofficial secluded camp spot on a gorgeous river. Being a relatively uncommon site, you also have the advantage of being strange enough that people are interested in talking with you. And best of all, at the end of the day you have a sense of accomplishment for the distance you’ve covered and the experiences you’ve earned entirely with your own volition and capacity. Bicycle touring is a beautiful thing!

A tandem tour of south-central Oregon.
Monday, August 17th, 2009.

Lake Baikal and Crater Lake have many things in common. Baikal is the deepest lake in the world, while Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the United States. Both have been regarded as sacred sties, and are renowned for their beauty and breathtakingly cold water. But while our trip to circumnavigate Lake Baikal on bicycle is a committing winter endeavor and still months away, a trip to ride around Crater Lake is a pleasant summer vacation that will only take us 9 days. While our final goal is to ride around Crater Lake, we have planned our trip to include many of the hidden treasures and curious sights in south-central Oregon such as McKenzie Pass, Lava River Cave, and Hole in the Ground.

The starting point of the trip is Eugene, Oregon. From here we will ride to Oakridge and head north to highway 242 via the acclaimed Aufderheide memorial drive. This road travels first along the South Fork of the McKenzie River, then along the North Fork of the Willamette River, and finally through Box Canyon. We will ride over the red covered bridge in Westfir, the longest covered bridge in Oregon, built in 1945. Once we reach highway 242 we will ascend to the summit of McKenzie Pass.

At the summit of McKenzie pass we will visit the Dee Wright Observatory – an open shelter in the midst of a large lava flow. It is constructed entirely from rough black lava stones. If we are lucky we will be able to enjoy a view of many of the mountains in the area. After the heights of McKenzie Pass we will descend, down, down, down, until we have reached a place deep in the earth called Hole in the Ground.

This “hole”, located near La Pine, OR, is actually a large explosion crater, or “maar”. It is approximately one mile across and its floor is about 490 feet below the surrounding ground level. In pictures it looks more like a moon crater or a giant pimple than a hole, but perhaps it will be more impressive when witnessed firsthand. After the Hole we will continue our subterranean exploration at our stop at Lava River Cave near the town of Bend. The Cave is a lava tube of 5210 feet in length which was formed approximately 80,000 years ago

Many towns we will be passing that were established in the 19th century were previously inhabited by Native American tribes. Many of the peaceful forests and fields surrounding these towns witnessed some of the last fighting between Native Americans and European settlers in the Pacific Northwest. One of the most famous of these sites is Fort Klamath, where the Modoc, Klamath, and Northern Paiute tribes fought to retain autonomy over their lands. These were the last battles to occur in California and Oregon. One of the interesting things about the Pacific Northwest is that much of its history is told outside of museums and the hustle and bustle of the bigger cities. One of Oregon’s richest historical museums is its nature. Even the trees here are over 200 years old and stand as monuments of a dramatic past.

Along our way we will also enjoy the simple pleasures of eating wild huckleberries and blackberries on the side of the road. One of the best things about travelling by bicycle is that your focus is not so much on reaching your goal, but having fun on your way to it. The goal simply functions as a good reason to get out of the house and make a go of it – the hardest part being just getting out the door. With so many fascinating aspects of our world to explore, why not throw a pair of panniers on a bike and set out?

Enjoy your summer!

Motivation and Promotion: The Baikal Cause
Tuesday, August 4th, 2009

Another factor that has motivated me to plan this trip is my desire to promote and contribute to the efforts of a small but dedicated group of local environmentalists – the non-profit organization Great Baikal Trail (GBT), located in Irkutsk, Russia. GBT is working to preserve Lake Baikal and promote environmental conservation in the region through the construction of the first recreational trail system in Russia. Over 540 kilometers of trail have been built so far during summer trail-building projects that involve members of the local communities as well as volunteers from all over the world. You can find out more about GBT and how to volunteer for a summer trail-building project here - http://www.greatbaikaltrail.org/index_en.html

We will be promoting this expedition through various mediums. The most notable will be a medium-length film produced by Venezuelan team member Federico Pisani. Federico is an experienced photographer and film maker who has won awards and international recognition for his work. His last film, “La Ventana”, a documentary of a climb of Cerro Torre in Patagonia, was featured in the official selection of Banff Film Festival World Tour and won Prize for Best Photography at the Festival Ascenso in Venezuela in 2007. Our hope is that the film will acquaint audiences with the unique beauty and ecological significance of Lake Baikal as well as with the preservation efforts in the region in order to engender interest and encourage international cooperation in dealing with issues of environmental conservation on a global level.

We will also be organizing a number of slide-show presentations in Oregon and Washington. These presentations will be an opportunity for us to publicize our trip, promote our sponsors, and increase awareness of Lake Baikal and the current conservation efforts in the region. In addition, we hope to contribute articles to leading adventure journals upon completion of the trip. Two members of the team have published articles in American Alpine Journal, and there is strong interest within the team to publish.

Lake Baikal: The team
Tuesday, July 21st, 2009

I have been very fortunate to assemble a highly motivated and experienced team of athletes for this trip, all of which have extensive experience either climbing or cycling in demanding conditions in remote parts of the world.

Venezuelan Maikey Lopera has established new rock and alpine climbing routes in Canada and Venezuela, was a former member of the Venezuelan National Cycling Team, and is ACLS and Wilderness First Responder certified.

American Eric Noll has recently finished a 6-week bike tour through the Indian Himalaya, has completed a self-supported 2-week solo bike tour through the Altai Republic in Russia, and has extensive bicycle touring and mountaineering experience in the USA, Alaska, and Canada.

Federico Pisani has established new rock and alpine climbing routes in Venezuela, Chile, and Argentina, including the first ascent of Upuigma in Venezuela and Cacao de Chuao 5.13 in Tepuy Roraima (Venezuela).

I am responsible for the general organization of the trip and logistics on the ground as I am the only member of the team who speaks Russian and has previously been to Lake Baikal. I have extensive experience bicycle touring and mountaineering in the USA, Canada, Russia, Mongolia, and China, including riding from Irkutsk to Beijing and a 3-week self-supported winter mountaineering expedition in Kamchatka, Russia.

Training for this trip should be pretty straight forward, just a matter of spending time on the bike, although we will need to put the bikes on hard-packed snow roads in winter to see how they handle and to test the gear. Bearing in mind that Baikal is completely flat, we are considering using fixed-gear or single speed drivetrains. I like the idea of having as simple a bike as possible to minimize possibilities for gear failure and general malfunction due to the extreme cold. Opting for a fixed-gear drivetrain would allow us to run a cable free bike as brakes would become superfluous. We may even choose to run a 2-speed fixed-gear, allowing a back-up lower gear in case of snow accumulation, winds, or tired legs. It will be important beforehand, however, to test the bikes fully loaded on snow to make sure that the gear we choose is the right size.

I am very excited about this expedition. Like many of you I’m sure, since childhood I have been fascinated by cold and remote places. This trip allows me to combine my love of bicycle riding with my love of winter plus it has the added benefit of engendering contact with another culture as well as with a unique natural wonder – what the Russians refer to as “the gem of Siberia”; Lake Baikal. Many thanks go to Axiom for supporting us in this endeavor!

We are expecting to take 43 days to cover 2300 KM
Thursday, June 25th, 2009

We are expecting to take 43 days to cover the 2300 kilometers of Lake Baikal’s shoreline, averaging 55 kilometers per day. Although there are certain to be days where we will ride more than 55 kilometers, we also expect to encounter significant disruptions in the ice, which will impede our progress, as well as inclement weather such as high winds and snow storms which could confine us to our tents for days.

Our primary challenges will be dealing with bone chilling temperatures, dropping to as low as -40 degrees Celsius, on a daily basis and contending with variable ice and snow conditions. In the event of significant snow accumulation we may have a hard time making distance. It is not uncommon for large areas of ice to become fragmented, forming trenches and walls of fractured ice that require considerable detours.

Provisions, we are hoping will not be too hard to come by, as there are many small settlements around the lake. We expect the maximum number of days that we will travel between settlements with no opportunity to buy food or unleaded fuel for our stoves to be 14 days. Both the northeastern and northwestern sections of Baikal’s shoreline are remote, with no road access and very few areas of human settlement.

It Seemed to me to be the best way…
Friday, June 19th, 2009

It was sometime around the middle of the third day of skiing on the delightfully translucent but relentlessly hard, blue ice of Lake Baikal that I began to think of mountain bikes and studded tires. Thanks to the weight of our packs and the firmness of the ice, the edgeless touring skis that we were using were completely flattening out in the middle, which was making it a real challenge to make them track straight. Before we set out for this six-day excursion along the western coast of Lake Baikal, from the town of Listvyanka to Olhon’ island, I had envisioned spending our days kicking and gliding on hard-packed and wind-swept snow.

Instead we struggled to stay upright and keep our skis parallel as we steered and maintained our speed by double-poling on the slick ice. We were quickly made aware of how seldom we use the muscles of the insides of our thighs and groin. Not long after my buddy took a fall that split his eyebrow we decided enough was enough and spent a couple of days with local villagers before getting a ride back to Irkutsk, where I was living at the time.

Although the trip turned out to be shorter than we had planned, the icy expanses of Lake Baikal in winter left an impression on me that has proven unforgettable. The lake has a powerful spiritual presence that most likely comes from the fact that it is the oldest and deepest lake in the world. Even in winter the lake seems alive; the ice groans and pops as it moves. On that third day of squeezing my thighs together as if I were trying to crack walnuts I dreamt of swapping my skis for a mountain bike. It seemed to me to be the best way to experience Baikal in winter and to explore its more wild and remote corners. From that day I have dreamed of returning with a group of friends to complete the first human-powered winter circumnavigation of Lake Baikal on mountain bikes. It has taken 4 years for this dream to come to fruition, but circumstances have finally aligned, and we are set to embark on this adventure in February of 2010.

Keep dreaming those Arctic Dreams!

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